How to sew a shirt?
Sewing a shirt is a rather difficult task for many. Of course, if you haven’t sewed anything like this before, it will be quite difficult to sew the shirt itself. Nevertheless, there is a solution, and it is about this decision that we will first of all talk.
Pattern for the pattern
How to sew a shirt? Let's say right away: making the pattern yourself is absolutely not necessary. Instead, you can simply re-take the pattern from the finished item. This method has one significant advantage over ready-made patterns, published in various publications. The fact is that the finished patterns do not take into account the peculiarities of the figure at all, so those who can not customize the thing for themselves, have to put up with some inconveniences. If we remove the pattern from the finished thing, then here you can adjust all the parameters directly during the pattern removal. So, the first thing we need is a pattern for the pattern. It can be as a women's shirt or blouse, and men's shirt. Now let's talk about how to correctly reshoot the pattern from the sample.
Women's shirt - pattern
Suppose we want to sew a women's shirt, and as a sample we only have a men's shirt. This is also no big deal. We take a pencil and a roll of paper (or, if there is no suitable one, we glue together several sheets of a smaller format or, at worst, a newspaper). Now we straighten the sample and apply to the paper that part of the shirt that we will be re-taking, and then we fasten it with pins. In this case, note that the size of the sheet on which we will draw the pattern should exceed the size of the part by at least 10 cm on each side, so do not forget to leave this stock. Best of all, if you retake the pattern from the ripped sample. Professionals also advise starting from the back, dividing the drawn detail along the contour and pressing the seams. Measure the sleeve sleeves very carefully, as this is the main point of connection of the parts of the product. After circling the entire part, pull out the paper, connect the strokes with a solid line and fold the paper with the pattern along and in half in order to check whether the symmetrical pattern is obtained. As for the sleeves, the most thorough need to re-take the shape of the okat.The length of the neck should be exactly the same as the length of the armhole. The only exception is if you want to sew the sleeves with pleats.
How to sew a shirt - pattern adjustment
If you want to reduce the size, you can do the following: the part of the pattern that needs to be reduced is divided into three equal parts with the help of horizontal or vertical lines. Along the lines we lay folds in width from 0.5 to 1.5 cm. If it is required to reduce the sleeve, then first of all it is necessary to reduce the sleeve width, and only then fit the armhole in accordance with the new size. Now do the darts. To do this, put on underwear that would fit the body well, and attach the pattern to the body in front of the mirror. Now you need to mark the top of the chest. Horizontal tuck can start right from this point, and vertical - a couple of centimeters below. We select the width of the tuck empirically, but do not forget to leave a few centimeters (at least three and no more than five) on the free fit of the product. As for the sleeve, it is best to adjust its width, after the sleeve is sewn into the armhole.
How to sew a shirt - cutting
Fabric for a shirt is better to take the same as on the sample from which we removed the pattern, or with similar properties. Do not take too dense and heavy material or too thin, which is easily stretched, as in these cases even a correctly made pattern is not a guarantee of a good fit of the shirt on your figure. For cutting, we take a 150 cm wide fabric and a length of one and a half to two meters (taking into account the increase in the seams). We also need flizelin, which need to glue the cuffs, collar and bar. If you do not have nonwoven fabric - it doesn’t matter, the additionally cut parts that you will need to put inside for rigidity will also fit. The collar is best cut separately, because it usually has a tough stand. Although if you use as a material, for example, flannel, then you can cut the collar together with the rest of the details.
Sewing a shirt
Now, in order to sew a shirt with our own hands, it remains for us to overcome the last stage - the actual sewing. If you have done everything correctly before this, sewing will not seem particularly difficult. We start with the fact that we sew tuck, and then we make straight lines on the sides and shoulders of the product.Now on each sleeve we do along the side seam and sew to the sleeves of the cuff. Next, sew the sleeves on the neck in the armhole, and then sew the bar. The collar is sewn last. Pay special attention to tailoring the collar: in order not to spoil the look, it should lie well. In order not to spoil the shirt, it is better to first sew the seams on a “live” thread and try on, and only then, if everything suits you, stitch on a typewriter. It is recommended to pin the sleeves and the collar first with pins, while the pins are sticking perpendicular to the seam - in order to avoid fabric pulling. And the final touch - punching loops and sewing buttons on the finished shirt. In the case of the female model, the loops should be on the right side and the buttons on the left. That's all. Now let's try to sew a men's shirt that does not seem to you particularly difficult if you have coped with the task of making a women's shirt.
How to sew a shirt for a man?
Some women want to learn how to sew a shirt for the most beloved man. In general, the process of sewing men's shirts is not much different from women's tailoring. To begin, take a sample for the pattern.Best of all, if it will be some old shirt that fit your man. Then you just need to exactly transfer the pattern to paper and then cut and sew the fabric accordingly. In the case when you need to make a correction, and your “model” for some reason is missing, or you want to make a surprise, you will have to sew by eye. I must say, it is still much easier than to sew a woman’s shirt - because of the peculiarities of the figure. The rest of the sewing procedure is the same. After we finished transferring the pattern, we cut the fabric and proceed to sewing in the same way: darts (if the shirt is fitted, if not, then not needed), lines on the sides and shoulders, side seams on the sleeves for sewing the cuffs, the cuffs themselves , sleeves and finally a collar.
For those who for some reason do not want to create their own pattern, we give a few sites where you can find good samples. Simple patterns of men's shirts (including the fitted version) can be found. A more detailed description with photos of the "production process" is presented on this site: "". In order to find good samples of patterns of women's shirts, we recommend to visit this site: "". Here you will find samples of patterns of vests: "".And for those who want to dive deeper into the topic, we can offer the following theoretical calculations for building your own pattern of women's and men's shirts: "". With these patterns, you can also easily understand how to sew a shirt with your own hands.