By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory.

Tikhvin is one of the few cities in the Leningrad Region, which has a very ancient history. By this, it is already attractive and interesting, but even more interesting is the Assumption Monastery, which houses the main shrine of the North-West - the miraculous icon of the Tikhvin Mother of God. In the previous article I already told about how our tourist club arrived by Easter on Tikhvin for Easter, and now the story about the second half of our trip, during which we visited the Assumption Monastery. Here I will tell not only about what we saw, but also about the history of Tikhvin, about the heroic events that took place here, and how it affected our whole country.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

How we got to the monastery from the second suspension bridge, I will not tell.I can only say one thing: I came into conflict with the navigator, who led me along a short path, and went as I had walked about before, while avoiding noisy and large roads. The reason was that some of the roads in Tikhvin are not such, and the fact that the map is marked as a street may actually be a strip of uninterrupted dirt where even the most courageous tourists like us will not go.
So, we went to the fortress wall of the monastery.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory.monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Immediately, I suggest we get tired to separate ourselves, so that we can immediately go to the monastery, at the same time realizing our spiritual needs, standing at each of the icons, praying in the churches, or sitting in the dining room of the monastery. The most stable and active half stayed with me, who likes to walk more. And we went, as I have always taken, to bypass the fortress wall around the perimeter in order to cover the entire architecture.
The wall, unfortunately, has long been continuous. In some places it is interrupted, and the gaps are filled with modern fences.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

In this fence, some strange wicket-semiconductor. It opens from the inside, you can go out, but you can not go.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

We go along the fortress wall along the bank of the river Tikhvinki.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

I specifically take pictures on the background of the tower, which was obvious that it is not as small as it may seem.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Modern towers and walls were built during the restoration in the 19th century, as the old ones had by this time decayed long ago. At this time, the monastery had no military significance, and the fence with towers could only be useful from the attack of some robbers, who in the glorious times of Emperor Alexander I too were almost gone. Therefore, it is two times lower than it was in the past hard times. Although, if the monasteries would not surrender without a fight to the Bolsheviks after the revolution, but act like they did in the Time of Troubles, for the Red Army, these walls, with machine guns in the towers, would be a serious obstacle. But alas, in 1917-1918, Russia fell into a comatose state, and surrendered almost without a fight, and when she came to her senses, it was too late.
By train to Tikhvin.Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Small group photo on the background of the tower. Only half of us are left, the rest are already resting inside the monastery
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

The wall further has a gap again, covered with a tin fence. Unfortunately, I do not know when they broke it, I can only assume that this is the legacy of the Great Patriotic War. The fights near Tikhvin were hot ... The wall of the fortress had to rest against the gate tower, it was also a church at the same time.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

From the front it looks just like a temple, but from the side you can see the gate, which is now closed, and it is clear that this was the classical gate tower of the fortress, through which, at an angle, along the wall, they entered. Gate towers have always been particularly powerful, as the entrance to the fortress is the most vulnerable place.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

We go inside. It is clearly seen that there is another wall in the distance, fencing off its core from the main territory of the monastery. This is a classic layout of a medieval fortress. Now the core of the fortress is not surrounded by walls, but cells and temples, but in the old days, each of the buildings turned into fortifications, and fire from all types of weapons could be conducted through the windows.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

The walls of the fortress. Despite the fact that it was built rather to maintain the tradition, because no one expected to fight in the 19th century - the state was fairly stable and calm - it is quite suitable for military operations. There is a serf course along the wall, so that the garrison moves from one site to another, there are embrasures through which you can send a charge of lead to uninvited guests ... Of course, if a full-fledged army came with artillery and powder charges for mining - such a fortress in the 19th century could no longer fight. But from the attack of enemy cavalry, armed only with swords and carbines - she would have defended.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

The monastery withstood the siege of Swedish troops in 1613, after which the Swedes were forced to retire. And the thing was this. During the Time of Troubles, Vasily Shuisky, who killed the False Dmitry of the First and declared himself king, completely lost control of Russia, the cities one after another swore to False Dmitry the Second, followed by detachments of Polish adventurers who were looking for plunder. His troops, able to restore order in the country, did not exist. As stated in the famous film "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes the Profession": "the king is not real!". It would have been better if they did not kill the False Dmitry of the First, that all the cities recognized him, and Smoot was almost over, and the Shish showed the Poles quickly ... In general, they invited the Swedes to help them clean up the mess. It was much better than the Polish trash and tramps from the Russian lands, because the worst representatives of the nation came from Poland, which the king gladly floated out of his own state, so that they would not make it in their homeland, but the Russian militia of the False Dmitry the Second simply plunged everyone horrified, it was some forerunner of the future Red Army men, with their class hatred and reprisals.The Swedish disciplined army was the best option of all that was at that time. And the Swedes really helped to clear the north of Russia from the interventionists and supporters of the False Dmitry the Second.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

But then two things happened suddenly. First, Vasily Shuisky took and did not pay the money hired by the Swedes. Here it is, the Moscow authorities, for centuries it has a tradition to throw money at everyone. But if their citizens can still work without salaries, then the Swedes are quickly tired of this. For a while they fought out of respect for the commander that led them - to the brother of the talentless king Skopin-Shuisky. But then a second event happened - Vasily Shuisky was very afraid of the growing popularity of his brother, and after one of the holiday feasts Skopin-Shuisky suddenly dies, obviously poisoned. Then the Swedes finally stopped fighting on the side of Moscow
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

As payment for their services, they took all the northern lands. It is usually called in the textbooks "Swedish intervention", which is complete nonsense. Moscow turned out to be without the only force with which it was possible to restore order on its land, fighting against its people. And here the Polish king also went to Moscow, who decided that he, too, could make some profit here, and not just the Polish rabble who had gone on his own initiative, but the False Dmitry militia. The Moscow boyars hurriedly overthrew the king-loser, sending him violently to a monastery, where he quickly dies, most likely also poisoned, and surrenders to the Poles, inviting them to rule. The next time they tell you that the opposition is always working for Western money, and in the Kremlin is a hotbed of patriotism - remember how Moscow surrendered to all foreign forces in a row from 1606-1612, and just the forces of the people were continuously trying to do something fix it.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

In general, from this immersion in history it will now become clear to the reader what the Swedes were doing here in 1613. They would have been here further, but at that time they elected Mikhail Romanov to the kingdom. The people of Tikhvin understood that the Swedish garrison was no longer needed here - and they raised a rebellion against it in order to establish the power of the new tsar in Tikhvin, on which Russia had placed great hopes. This ended in success, the Swedes came with reinforcements, they stormed the fortress three times - but were eventually forced to leave with nothing. Soon the peace was signed with the Swedes, in which they were given all the northern fortresses, and the border did not go so far from Tikhvin - along the River Lave, which flows into Nazia. The Swedes could keep Novgorod as well, but they graciously returned it to Russia, sensibly considering that they did not have enough strength to control such large territories.After that, peace came in relations with them for almost a hundred years, which cannot be said about Poland.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

The main architectural landmark of the monastery is the Assumption Cathedral. Russian beauty, is not it? The most interesting thing is that like many other "Russian" - for example, the Moscow Kremlin - it was built by Italian architects. Since the time of the first sovereign autocratic ruler in Russia, Grand Duke Ivan the Third, Italian architecture firmly settled in the Russian lands, they themselves had built kremlins in Novgorod and Tula, and many more.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory.monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

It was built around 1515, when Ivan the Third had already died, and his son Vasily the Third had replaced him. Interestingly, the cathedral appeared before the monastery. The monastery will be built in 1560, already on the orders of Ivan the Terrible, who drove the inhabitants of all the surrounding lands to take part in the construction of the monastery, which also became a fortress.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Nearby is the Pokrovskaya Church. This is also a very ancient building. It was laid in 1581. It still shows the old traditions of the architecture of the Russian North.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

These days, the main shrine - the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God - was in this church, although I had always seen it in the Assumption Cathedral.We were at 16.00, and at this time the queue was already small, and sometimes I saw that the queue stretched for half an hour, leaving the tail to the street. The icon is considered miraculous, many people come to it with their requests.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

I photograph the Assumption Cathedral from the porch of the church.
The construction of monasteries by Moscow sovereigns always had a sense not so much a Christian as a military-political one. Each monastery was a church on the frontiers of the Moscow state, in poorly developed lands. Vepsians and Finnish tribes lived here, the remains of which still inhabit our lands, in addition, there were trade routes along the rivers. Under the specious pretext of the spread of Orthodoxy, military garrisons appeared in the northern lands. And sometimes it turned out to be very useful, for example, the Pskovo-Pechora monastery, an even more powerful fortress, stopped part of the troops of Stefan Batory, who almost blew the whole of Russia when Ivan the Terrible lost the Livonian war. Then only Pskov and its neighboring fortresses — the Pechora and the Gdov — saved the country from destruction.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

View from the porch to the belfry.
By train to Tikhvin.Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

View from the porch to the Church of the Ascension. Archimandrite cells adjoin it.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Plunging into the history, it is impossible to pass by the main military event in our history connected with Tikhvin. Here was the first major victory of our country in 1941, after a series of continuous severe defeats from the Germans. On November 9, 1941, the Germans entered Tikhvin, this was a sentence to Leningrad. From now on, supplying it to Ladoga became impossible. With the death of Leningrad, the German troops would all have rushed to Moscow, Moscow would have fallen, which was barely holding on. A little more - and the country would come to an end. To knock the Germans out of Tikhvin was a matter of survival. Already on November 12, part of the Soviet troops launched an offensive. Soon the Germans realized that they would not be able to withstand the onslaught, and began to retreat, in Tikhvin only one regiment remained to cover the retreat. On December 9, Soviet troops entered Tikhvin, from where the Germans literally fled, abandoning all their equipment. At this time, the battle for Moscow was still in full swing, and under Tikhvin the Germans had already signed the verdict. Their plans were thwarted, and this meant that the victory of the USSR in the war was inevitable.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

We leave from the inside of the monastery into the rest, enclosed by fortifications. Lake Syrkovo is located here.
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I photograph the Church of the Intercession and the belfry from the lake.
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All this is very beautiful, warms the soul, and it is a pity that there is no possibility to walk along these walls. For a ticket there no money would be a pity.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Quietly here, beautifully, you can admire the Russian defensive architecture, think about the bygone eras ...
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Then we go around the central part of the monastery - the core of the fortress - in a circle.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

This fortress tower is actually a church of 12 apostles. I have never seen such a harsh church ... In war as in war, it was even possible to shoot from churches and hospital wards.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Hospital churches adjoin the tower church. In general, obviously this tower was built initially only for military purposes. Its peaceful use is already the result of late changes ...
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Behind, we suddenly see this. Something right in the spirit of the mystic TV series Twin Peaks. You will come to this booth and suddenly you will go out somewhere in London, and even a year in 1950 ...
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Cat's house. Communal apartment for two families. One tenant sits below.
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His neighbor makes a round of possessions nearby.
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Everything is nice, clean, and nowhere are the usual fences, inscriptions that everything is forbidden, fencing tapes ... I remember the evil Borisoglebsky monastery near Yaroslavl, where there are prohibition signs and fences at every step. And in our Tikhvin - all is good.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Holy Cross Church
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Built in 1877 by the architect Benoit.10 years ago it was without domes. Now everything has returned to its place.
By train to Tikhvin.Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Northern fraternal cells. I don’t know about the brothers, but when I got out, a very plump pop came out, looked at me sternly when I was photographing the fortress walls and towers, but said nothing, but went silently to my foreign car. Well and good.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

A lot of cars, apparently this is the fraternal territory, with their parking. But there are no prohibition plates, nobody drove me, and I began to study the turret of the fortress, which is used as a warehouse.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Well, when there are no prohibition signs and fences. Tikhvin Monastery - a place of peace!
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

At the top of the tower you can see the door. This means that it went along the fortress wall. Now it is not there, because the wall itself has become lower. And before that, it had to reach a height of at least that door, so that defenders moved along it, passing through the towers.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Inside the tower. Perhaps there is rarely anyone here ... only such enthusiastic fortification lovers like me. It can be seen that there was a second floor, for which the windows and doors were made.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Another turret. Also used as a warehouse.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Over the years, everything here is changing for the better.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Now everything is clean, and the photos of the monastery are not ashamed to be shown to people.It is a pity that in the nearby Monastery of Vvedensky everything is different. But maybe about him ever remember.
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

My companions are waiting for me at the end of the path, not understanding where I disappeared. But the place is so beautiful that it is a pleasure to stand here and wait for them!
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Go back, take photos from other angles. Beauty at every turn!
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Many people in St. Petersburg are sitting here - and they don’t know that you can just take an electric train early in the morning and come to such a spiritual place!
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Finally, you need to go to the Assumption Cathedral
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Since the icon moved to the Intercession Church, there are very few people here today. You can take pictures, no one will hiss. By the way, in the nearby Vvedensky Monastery, we were suddenly told this phrase in an alarming voice:
"Yes, of course, you can take pictures, but please do not take pictures of yourself against the background of icons."
Lord, does this mean that there are idiots who make such selfies in the temples ?! In general, do not do this ...
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With this cathedral, I had a wonderful story alone. In June 2016, we came here after falling under the rain, and all the cameras were out of action due to moisture. And after visiting the cathedral - it all worked for everyone. That was a miracle.
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Tikhvin Monastery is a truly spiritual place.Here, both beautiful and sincere faith is felt ...
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The story about the monastery must necessarily include one more important detail. In the photo, the author of the story sits, plunged into a supportive state, for a reason. The fact is that near in a stall - they sell wonderful pastries! I go here for many years, and here you can always buy something insanely cheap. In 2013, these were donuts of 5 rubles each, now they are amazing pies with jam for 30 rubles. And in 2016, baking was over, but we were tempted by church workers to drink hot mulled wine, to which, after some hesitation, we agreed, and the way home was lightened up with colors of good mood and good-natured sleep right up to the house ... In general, they cook deliciously, mentally!
By train to Tikhvin. Assumption Monastery - Russian fortress, a place of military glory. monastery, monastery, fortresses, time, can, towers, here, walls, church, only, always, after, when, along, through, Here, place, very, Ouspensky, Swedes

Sit on the train, departing at 17.15. At 20.45 we will be in Fisherman’s. This is not the last train, there is an hour and a half to Volkhovstroy, from where you can also take the last train to St. Petersburg, but then we would arrive at 11.30 pm in Rybatskoye, which is late for many. And we managed to see everything in one day, having enjoyed the beauties of the wonderful city ...
на электричке в тихвин. успенский монастырь - русская крепость, место боевой славы. монастыря, монастырь, крепости, время, можно, башни, здесь, стены, церковь, только, всегда, после, когда, вдоль, через, здесь, место, очень, успенский, шведы


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