About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek in Ostankino

About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Moscow is like a planet: a boundless round city with a pronounced core and the orbits of the Moscow Ring Road and two concrete. Satellites rotate in orbits - of course, satellite cities, all these Korolev, Reutov, Khimki, Lyubertsy, in which most of the space industry of Russia is concentrated. Or Golitsyno with the Patriot park, the most interesting expositions of which I showed in the last part. But having walked along the Middle Space of Moscow, it was time to land on the streets of the capital: I had plenty of material for 5 big posts about Cosmic Moscow.
Moscow Star Trek is the “orange” Kaluzhsk-Rizhskaya metro line. Even its name: Kaluga is the cradle of astronautics, and from Riga was the founder of MosGIRD Friedrich Zander. At Kaluzhskaya there is the Space Research Institute, which I have already shown separately with the Institute of Biomedical Problems.From "Kaluga", with stops at the "Leninsky Prospekt", "Prospect Mira" and "Riga" go to "Exhibition Center" - in the cosmic spirit fanned Ostankino.
From the metro station "Leninsky prospect"Output leads on Gagarin Square - an incredibly huge and very nice on the map: on top of it looks like either a bird, or an airplane where a mighty Leninsky Prospekt dives Third Ring Road, but the ensemble area formed long before it was built in the times when.. this road could pass Konstantin Tsiolkovsky, there was a "neboykaya", far away from the big houses, rich districts and largest factories Kaluga outpost. In 1903-08 years under her Prosha Moscow Circular railway, then opoyasovshaya city. Trains they set off to the bridge across the Moscow River by a deep ravine that turned into a peculiar urban moat. It was in the 1930s that they decided to build the real city gates of two long houses near the avenue with powerful towers. War prevented the project - the right house was finished in 1941, the year, left in 1951, and the difference between the pre-war and post-war austerity pomp immediately visible to the naked eye.The “gate” of the Kaluzhskaya outpost was the border of Moscow for a long time, and the bridge from them led to dachas and kitchen gardens, but under Khrushchev the city broke out beyond that border in endless quarters of “Cheryomushki” - the first five-story residential districts of the USSR The ravine of the railway turned into a tunnel, with the reconstruction of the Ministry of Railway in the MCC, which housed its only underground station "Gagarin Square". Well, the square itself received this name in 1968, shortly after the death of the First Cosmonaut:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The monument was erected to him even later, in 1980, and this is certainly one of the most famous Soviet monuments: a stele made of titanium, that is, the main metal of spacecraft, 42 meters high, a ball like a capsule "East" at the foot but above, with a simple face Russian guy (about Gagarin, see here), the real Rocketman.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

I love the Stalinist “gates” very much, and may Muscovites forgive me, but I still consider the best example of such towers in Minsk. Here, on the other hand, the difference of two eras is visible to the naked eye: on the right is the stern expectation of war:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

On the left - the song of the winners:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek in Ostankino Korolev, Sergey,Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

I mostly photographed the left house, because the magnificent Stalinist Empire style is rich in details compared to strict post-constructivism:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Most of the shots of this post were taken a couple of months ago on the eve of the "snowfall of the century", but at the foot of the "gate" I passed with a camera in 2013 with George
About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space
griphonBypassing cargo circular railway, are just starting to turn into a passenger center ring. It was late autumn, so a few shots without snow:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The Academy of Sciences, the luxurious building of its Presidium (1976-91, height 120m) settled next to the monument to the main achievement of national thought, the people - Golden Brains:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Nowadays, right in the "brains" is the pretentious restaurant "Sky Lounge", where many go specifically for the views of Moscow, which are from here luxurious. Below is the clock tower, and the hands of the clocks are similar to the drawings of the spacecraft:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Two tunnel leads directly to the bridge across the Moscow River, and over their portals - an observation deck. Skyscrapers and pipes - what a Moscow view!
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

To the left are the Sparrow Hills and the university, as if floating above the city. Closer - the St. Andrew monastery, reliably known since 1625 (and unreliable - from the pre-Mongol times) and also related to the sciences: in 1650 the Teachers Brotherhood from a few dozen educated monks from Ukraine settled here,and since 1682 the monastery served as professorial apartments of the Slavic-Greek-Latin Academy, a considerable part of which teachers were monks. From the embankment, St. Andrew’s Monastery is a gloomy square of the buildings of the early 19th century, but from above you can see the colorful Baroque Resurrection Church (1689-1701), the church-bell tower of St. John the Theologian (1769) and the Gate Church of Andrei Stratelates (1675). Even closer to the recent was going to "Debarcader" - a famous platform for free lectures of travelers. Once or twice I spoke there ...
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Turning around, you will see the perspective from the title frame: Gagarin seems to be saying “x ... everything for this and the sky through the pipe!”. Within the Garden Ring, the "orazhevaya" branch deviates from the Star Trek - the Chertkovsky Library, the GIRD House and Laba-Space are strung on the "red" Sokolnicheskaya line. Maybe the pressure case is past the core, Star Trek restores the trajectory, and our next stop is "Peace Avenue“Here the road is no longer to Kaluga, but to Yaroslavl, and the magnificent Stalinist lobby belongs, of course, to the eponymous Koltsevaya Line station.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

And already from the station one can see a frighteningly tall Soviet skyscraper with black “screens” of the facades.To him and go through the long underground passages and past the Church of Philip of Moscow in Meshchanskaya Sloboda (1777-78):
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The present church, one of the most unusual in Moscow, was built by Matvey Kazakov on the site of an older wooden church, and it is remarkable not only for its general appearance, but also for its details. In 1994-97, from the west, the Siberian Compound was attached to the church, but it didn’t get into the frame.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Next to it is the Moscow Metro Administration (1986), which is most memorable for hanging gallery-like galleries:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Olimpiysky sports complex, a giant (260m in diameter) concrete washer, dominates all this district, and from its name it is quite clear when it was completed. Formerly, the last corner of the “Moscow Big Village” with wooden mansions on quiet, neglected streets stood in its place, but now there is not the fact that these houses, and even many streets, on which they stood. But the Historical Mosque (1904) = was demolished in 2010 without trial or investigation and by 2015 some strange model was erected in its place in the style of either Indonesia or Malaysia ... but with unique Tatar tents on minarets.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

What is impressive is that the Olympic construction moved clearly towards the center.Going out on Shchepkin Street, you see a completely different landscape - a profitable house (1912-14) and a very 200-year-old wooden mansion in the megalopolis - the house-museum of the actor Mikhail Shchepkin.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The prospect of Shchepkin Street, by some other metropolitan organizations rests on the Church of the Sorrow-bearing (1896-99) at the Old-Ekaterininskaya Hospital (initially) or at the famous MONIKS now.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Halfway before her, the same skyscraper literally collapses on its size. In fact, it is not even 100 meters, but from a narrow street the building simply suppresses the scale. It was built hotel for the Olympics-80, for the largest and most important American delegation, and even its low building was modeled on the Boston Town Hall. But the United States, as you know, preferred to boycott the Olympics-80, and what happened to this building over the coming decades, I did not figure it out. Now an organization lives in it, the name of which no person familiar with the space theme will utter indifferently - Roscosmos.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

It should be noted here that the organizations of cosmonautics "in our country" and "in theirs" historically were built on completely different principles. Actually, private astronautics existed long before Ilon Mask - American missiles, satellites,Spacecraft, after all, is not produced by NASA, but by giant companies like Boeing or Lockhead, and SpaceX is notable for the fact that it quickly came out of nowhere and put PR on very well. NASA, as well as ESA, JAXA and others are customers, and their business is not to build a rocket, but to designate the tasks for which this rocket is needed, and having received the “product” from a private executor, these tasks are implemented. The USSR went the other way: the first satellite, Belka and Strelka, Gagarin and Lunokhod was launched by the Ministry of General Engineering, formed in 1955 and periodically united with the Ministry of Defense. IOM was subordinate to more than 1,200 enterprises, which employed about 2 million people, and IOM controlled the entire industry, easily changing the space industry, building new plants and reassigning old ones to specific tasks. In addition to the Ministry, there was also an unofficial Council of Chiefs - the designers in the Soviet cosmonautics were no matter how influential officials, and the head of Energy - Sergey Korolev (before 1966), Vasily Mishin (before 1974) and the patriarch industry Valentin Glushko (before 1989). In post-Soviet Russia, however, something intermediate came out: in its pure form, the Federal Space Agency Roskosmos was, perhaps, in 2014–15,when ORKK (United Rocket and Space Corporation, which includes plants) and TsENKI (Center for Ground Space Infrastructure Operation) were allocated from it, but after about a year they were reunited - not only in the agency, but in the Roscosmos state corporation a quarter of a million people. Apparently, this decision was based on the success of another technological state corporation, Rosatom, which still holds the leadership in its industry confidently. They skipped reports that in the coming years Roskosmos was also merging with military rocket engineers like Almaz-Antey, and I was not the one to judge how to correct. One thing is clear: astronautics is the industry that needs to be engaged in.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

From the Roscosmos skyscraper you can walk to the next metro station "Riga". A simple but very beautiful monument to the" Creators of the first artificial satellite of the Earth ", set up a year after its launch - in 1958, stands next to its" puck ".
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Looking at the monument to the Riga station, behind him (in the frame above) Znamenskaya Church (1756) in Pereslavskaya Yamskaya settlement, and why they decided to commemorate the beginning of the space era here - for me it remains a mystery.But it was through this square that Sergey Korolev and his comrades carried on their hands and carried a tram and a country train to the Nakhabinsky polygon, a small but significant for the future rocket GIRD-10.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

A couple more subway to the station "VDNH", and from the next puck we get into the most cosmic Moscow districtOstankino. Even not that space is the most aspiring away from the Earth: here is the highest in the country, and once in the world the Ostankino TV Tower (542 m, 1960-67), and 15 years ago I heard that about a third accounted for Ostankino in Moscow suicides. As a village known since 1555, and only in 1917 which entered the line of Moscow, Ostankino is one of the most interesting areas outside the center, and I even write about it not for the first time - in 2009 I showed this area from the window of the Moscow Monorail. In everyday life, "Ostankino" is called that part of the district that lies west of Akademik Korolev Street, with the luxurious Sheremetyev estate on the bank of the pond, the Ostankino tower and the infernal cube of the Telecenter. The area near the metro is often called "VDNH", and whether the achievements of the national economy were brighter than the conquest of space?
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Therefore, the space here is literally EVERYTHING.Even Mira Avenue in the area is more like Mira Avenue. On one side of it is the Cosmos Hotel (1976-79), built for the Olympics according to the French project and with the liquidation of the Rossiya Hotel, the remaining largest hotel in the country: 1,777 rooms, the number of residents of which from the moment of construction is comparable to the population of Moscow (7 the millionth guest was here in 2004). I heard that this 25-storey building is also the most round one either in the former USSR or in the world - that is, the circle here is certainly not complete, but its curvature is correct to some inconceivable parts.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

On the other hand, right at the metro is the Cosmopark, from which Star Boulevard and Akademik Korolev Street diverge. The current view of the park acquired in 2008, when the Cosmonauts Alley was reconstructed. They open it like a pair of pylons, the Earth Globe and the Globe of the Universe - in fact, of course, only the visible sky, as they cover its zodiac signs.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

In the middle - the model of the Solar system, from the level of the earth is pretty dull in general:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

But these balls are not laid for us here, but for Sergey Korolev, the monument to which (2008) is monumental in a quite Soviet way and looks great against the background of the tower piercing the sky:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Other gods of the cosmic epic, all these Chelomey, Glushko, Babakin and others are awarded only busts. And the Avenue of Stars is much more relevant here than in Hollywood - because the cosmonaut is perpetuated on every star, and as you can see from the empty pedestals, the Gagarin star is at the other end. Above the Alley is the bearded soulful Konstantin Tsiolkovsky, in this pantheon as a demiurge deity.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The monument above them is one of the most famous symbols of Moscow. It was erected in 1964, and Korolev and Gagarin were present at its opening. The height of the titanium stela is, of course, 108 meters in the number of minutes of the Gagarinsky flight, and this is the highest monument in Russia after the black obelisk on Poklonnaya Hill. The sun glitters on the metal, like a fiery plume, but the rocket itself is still a V-2 similarity - I don’t know exactly when the appearance of real rockets was declassified.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Every Muscovite saw a rocket at least from afar, but near the heroic epic on the sides of the pedestal is much more impressive:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

A simple and clear plot - the people, in a single impulse, following the right path, go to great accomplishments. What, it seems, very many people lack in our time ...
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Once I heard the song "Earth in the porthole" ...but in a different voice and with an additional verse, where something was sung about distant beautiful dreams. We are accustomed from childhood that cosmonautics is a dream, not hard work to reduce the launch price, and that its goal is not free Wi-Fi anywhere in the world, but blooming apple trees in the red Martian desert.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

But no matter how the story goes, these people were the first. Such is the property of social memory, which holds only the very first and highest achievement. But the highest achievement can vary - landing on the moon will eclipse the landing on Mars, as well as landing on Mars - a flight to other stars, and the first ... he is already the first FOREVER.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

On the other side of the monument - the gate. Since 1981, under it, there is a huge Memorial Museum of Cosmonautics, and on two pylons in front of it there is no accident that there are inscriptions in two languages ​​- a good half of the visitors there are foreigners:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Star plots in the hall:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

And I already showed many exhibits in past posts, having added them to departmental museums. Let me just say that the exposition here is huge, diverse, and there are many genuine things in it. I walked around the museum for 3 hours and filmed 400 shots, so be sure to stock up with water before visiting.In essence, this entire building is nothing more than the Mausoleum of Belka and Strelka, because in the most prominent place in the first hall there are stuffed two dogs that died in the kennel many years after their flight. Their mausoleum is much more luxurious than Lenin's mausoleum - but what is there any revolutionary in comparison with the first living beings who saw the cosmos?
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

From here you can go to the very VDNH. Founded in 1939 as the All-Union Agricultural Exhibition, the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy, it became only in 1959.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Today it is perhaps the best in the world "reserve" of Soviet architecture in all its diversity and originality. I once showed a reduced copy of the Moscow VDNH, but they differ in size 5 times. In the Moscow VDNH, you can walk for a whole day, entering pavilions somewhere engaged in trade, and somewhere quite useful for their intended purpose so, in childhood, I remember how in one of these I found a 360-pound pig, resembling a gigantic shmat of doctor's sausage in a fleecy skin. On the whole VDNH one post I definitely would not have enough.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

From the main gate I walked for about 20 minutes in a straight alley past skating rinks and snow-covered fountains.The third in terms of total luxury after the "Central" and "Ukraine" and the most elegant in terms of location is the pavilion "Cosmos" (1939-41) in the round area of ​​Industry. Rather, it was originally "Mechanization", then - "Electrification", "Urban Planning", "Mechanical Engineering", and only since 1967 the final owner of the pavilion was astronautics, which lost its secrecy. With the collapse of the USSR, the Exhibition of Economic Achievements turned into a market place, and the space exhibition to the mercy of fate gradually disintegrated - the models of the spacecraft still hung over the stalls, but gradually disappeared one by one. Some - not without a trace: for example, the docked “Soyuz-Apollo” to the RSC “Energia” museum came from here. Now the pavilion is being restored, or rather, it has already been restored - inside the new exhibition, including such rare vehicles as Almaz (see Reutov), ​​the most powerful rocket engine in history, the RD-170 (see Khimki), Bor-4 "(see Zhukovsky) and much more. Everything is ready, profile blogs and media are crammed with photos of fantastic cars, but with the discovery tightened, you see, until Cosmonautics Day (and this is not accurate - there is no official information about the date of discovery).
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

When this happens - I will certainly write a separate post. Or maybe I'll even try to get there in advance, by agreeing with the press service. On the square in front of the "Cosmos" is the layout of the Vostok launch vehicle, the Yak-42 plane and the Mi-8T helicopter. In January, a rolling platform of frightening height was attached to the launch complex, and planets were piled under the rocket. Nearby there is also a colorful playground, and right behind it is the Buran, a training model for Star City, which until 2014 was located in Gorky Park. It is now a museum, but I will save it for another post.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Therefore, leave VDNH, and through a secondary exit. Pay attention to the main pavilion - when the Spassky Tower for restoration was made so constructivist, the people were fucking, and now everyone is used to it.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Between the Exhibition of Economic Achievements and the Ostankino estate there is another very nontrivial place wedged in. Rows of penthouses beyond the fence with a barrier, forming on the map a well-marked letter "X" - this is not a new building for the nouveau riche, but the Moscow Star City. Or simply the Town of Astronauts - an unprecedented quarter for the USSR was handed over in 1986, and now 40 cosmonauts with their families live in it, including Savitsky, Popovich, Kubasov, Ryumin ...
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

In the center is the round building of the Cosmos Association, probably including some other public spaces for residents. I wanted to get through, but the guard is very polite (that's what it means to protect decent people!) I was let out - the entrance here is by invitation only.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

But the best view is still on top. I walked around here, and only at the gate I realized my mistake - the street in the background leads straight to the Rocket. On the other hand, the park begins estate Ostankino:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The first "cosmic" people of Ostankin, however, were not the astronauts, but the designers. Mikhail Tikhonravov and Boris Chertok lived in this Stalinist street on Academician Korolev Street (see the post about the monorail where it hit the frame).
42. photo from monorail, 2009.
About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

And in a quiet park at the corner of the Exhibition of Economic Achievements there is a mansion of Sergei Pavlovich Korolev himself, built as a present for the Chief of the Party in 1957, for launching the First Satellite. Here the designer lived for 9 years, for another 9 years his widow Nina Ivanovna was the mistress of the house, and the museum opened in 1975. Objectively, this is one of the most interesting museum houses in Moscow, but at the same time it is strangely unknown to him:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

And even the gate, when I arrived, was locked. But there was a light in the windows, and the guard came out.
-Do you see that copper handle? She was touched by Sergei Pavlovich himself! But we, alas, will go through the back door, because you need to keep the real door!
43a.
About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

In the basement at the entrance there is a cash register, a wardrobe, a cinema hall and a small exposition of letters to Stalin about the importance of interrupted works from Butyrka's dungeons to gifts like the archaic Canon (Canon Cine Zoom 512) for the royal wife. The life path of Sergei Palych (it’s not even a “biography”!) Was very “non-chamber”, and during my travels I didn’t cover all the places where fate threw him. Sergey Korolev was born on January 12, 1907 (or December 30, 1906, old style) in Zhytomyr, and although the Ukrainians consider him to be his, he was quite the son of an occupier - a Russian language teacher from Mogilev, who married the daughter of the Nezhin merchant Maria Moskalenko. Soon Pavel Korolev left the family, and 3-year-old Seryozha went to Nizhyn to be brought up by his grandmother. In 1915, the grown-up boy was briefly in Kiev, and survived the Civil War with his mother and stepfather in Odessa. There, the young man made friends with the pilots, but unlike Gagarin or Chkalov, the sky fascinated him quite differently - not to fly himself, but to create what flies. In 1924, Korolev returned to Kiev and entered the Kiev Polytechnic University,from where in 1926 he was transferred for success in his studies at the Moscow Higher Technical School - the current Baumanka, now - the main institution of cosmonautics. By that time, he had already been seen as a promising avakonstruktor and glider pilot, and the diploma was written under the guidance of the master, as Andrei Tupolev. His first launching pad was Koktebel, or rather Mount Klementieva, with which he launched self-made gliders and won victories at the all-Union gliding championships. But in 1930, Korolev's life turned his acquaintance either with Konstantin Tsiolkovsky himself, or with his works - whether there was a meeting of a great theorist and a future great practice in fact, biographers argue until now, but both geniuses knew each other. The next milestone was Friedrich Zander, a romantic German romantic from Riga, around whom the Moscow Group for the Study of Jet Propulsion rallied, in fact, a rocket-modeling circle under the patronage of OSOAVIAHIM. Zander dreamed of flying to Mars, but died suddenly, but managed to infect with his dream a much more strong-willed and talented Korolev. In the basement of the MosGIRD on the Garden Ring, "a group of engineers working for nothing" designed rockets, and higher authorities organized their launches from the Nakhabino training ground.With rockets, Germany experimented most actively in the world of that time, since the 1930s it has become a potential enemy No. 1, and therefore the interest of the Soviet authorities in missiles has increased. In 1934, the Gas-Dynamic Laboratory from Leningrad and MosGIRD merged into a Reactive Research Institute under the patronage of Marshal Tukhachevsky.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

This association revealed a very specific trait of Korolyevsky’s character - he was the Principal in life, couldn’t stand equal, couldn’t tolerate differences of opinion, and soon quarreled with Ivan Kleymyonov, director of the RNII, a professional scientist from the GDL. In 1935-38, Korolev, as the deputy director of the Russian Scientific Research Institute, created a series of winged missiles that even reached the test, but in the end, Kleymyonov lowered him to head of the department ... what saved his life: when his brainchild, the most responsible missilemen, fell behind Tukhachevsky shot, Korolev "only" went to the camps .... I told the story about GIRD and RNII separately. During the interrogation, Korolev had his jaw broken, breaking a decanter on his face. From Butyrka he wrote letters to the management about the importance of his research, but all in vain. After spending some more time in the transfer prison in Novocherkassk, Sergei Pavlovich went to the distant Vanino port and in April 1939 arrived at Kolyma.By August, he had reached the Maldyak gold mine, but spent several months there - his mother reached people like Union Deputy Mikhail Gromov (creator of the Flight Institute in Zhukovsky), the case was sent for review, and Sergei Pavlovich was recalled to the mainland. In Magadan, he did not have time for the last steamer, and by this he lost a year, but saved his life - the "Indigirka" perished in the storm Sea of ​​Japan. In Moscow, where Sergei Pavlovich returned in 1940, he was not released, but left him the main thing - the Work of Life. Now Korolev worked with the "Tupolev Sharashka", a prison-type design office, and not on missiles, but on jet planes - but he worked desperately, especially since there was a war in the yard. First in Moscow, and when bombs fell on the capital - in Kazan. Hour designer struck in 1944. German ballistic missiles "V-2" flew over France and fell in England, and although their accuracy was poor, and the production killed more people than use, the prospects for such weapons were aware of everything ... especially in combination with a nuclear bomb. And surrounded by Stalin, there were those who knew that there was no person in the Union who knew rockets better than Sergei Korolev.Soon the Red Army occupied Peenemünde, a German rocket center with a plant and a testing ground, equipment and a lot of “products” at different stages of cooking and young German specialists, whom Werner von Braun did not call for surrender to the Soviet Union, fell into the hands of the Soviet ... And now in Kaliningrad near Moscow OKB-1 began to master these technologies.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Then Korolev naturally GATHERED: "we write one, two in mind" - he thought about a dozen missiles at once, and if the P-1 was just a Soviet copy of the Fau-, then the P-2 flew twice further and had a separating warhead. By 1956, Korolev created the "magnificent seven" - the R-7 rocket, on modifications of which all manned cosmonautics fly and 60 years later. And although Sergei Palych created the weapon, he was getting closer to the rocket for space flights. Man in space - it was an excellent public relations idea of ​​socialism, and it was difficult to overestimate the benefit of the satellites that the military, the farmers, the general secretaries, so the space flight was prepared already from the end of the 1940s, and the first dogs flew along a suborbital trajectory for more tricky modifications "V-2". The Council of Chiefs rallied around Korolev, and these Chiefs became more and more of them: as the space program became more complex, all new firms emerged from the Korolev Design Bureau.In the late 1950s, the production of “sevens” missiles went to Kuibyshev (Samara), automatic interplanetary stations went to Khimki to Babakin, and Sergey Pavlovich himself increasingly concentrated on a manned spacecraft. His dream was still Mars, and in the First Satellite or the First Cosmonaut he saw only intermediate stages. The idea of ​​competing with the Americans in the Moon race did not deceive him - let us be second on the Moon, but first on Mars! Here, however, the inborn leadership failed - the Americans were far away, but Valentine Glushko and Vladimir Chelomey were near, and their endless disputes ended up not creating a rocket for the lunar flight of the USSR. Korolev died on January 16, 1966 - a rich biography and hard work undermined his health, and although he was not yet 60, he had a whole bunch of chronic diseases and did not survive the operation to remove a huge (fist-sized) sarcoma. There is a version that it was an echo of repression - because of a broken jaw, the doctors could not put a breathing tube into his trachea. And he planned for 1976 a manned flight to Mars ...
Korolev left 15–20 years earlier than most of his colleagues in the Council of Main, and it took the Soviet cosmonautics another decade to learn how to develop without him. And there and Perestroika tightened ...But on the death mask, Korolev looks like a contented man, who before his death knew that life had not been in vain.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Well, the house-museum ... the house is like a house - with a hallway in which stands the sculpture "To the Stars" ..
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

With aftografami 11 astronauts who have been in space during the life of Korolev:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

With cozy lounges on the ground floor, ficuses, paintings, old crockery and a talisman doll under glass:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Yes, some kind of space unit on the fireplace:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Places a mansion can not be distinguished from the usual apartment in Khrushchev:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

And in some places you realize that then-luxury is the level of a small businessman today:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

On the second floor, above the stairs, there is a library, and in these closets there is mainly fiction, and if it is scientific, it is far from astronautics. On the closet there is a glider, as a reminder of the sultry drunken Koktebel at the beginning of the road. Tsiolkovsky came to rockets with derezhably, and Korolev from uncontrolled model airplanes and gliders.
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

But the main thing in the house of the designer is the Cabinet. Models of missiles, including GIRD-09, drawing "seven":
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Books of the Chief Designer:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

The air here seems to be still electrified from his thoughts:
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

Perhaps this mansion is the most lively house-museum that I have seen.There are no tablets here, it smells of the same dust that Sergey Pavlovich breathed in, Nina Ivanovna and their only daughter Natalya. Full feeling that the owner went away on business for a while, and I, such a paparazzi, at this time climbed into his home. Seeing me to the gate, the same talkative guard said:
“You know, it's not just like that.” Who is on duty at night in the house, they could tell a lot. Then you come to the house - and you see in the window a shadow flickering. That door will be open, while leaving, it was closed. But recently a supervisor was sitting, and suddenly he heard footsteps on the stairs. Confident such, master. She says, without becoming confused: "Sergei Palych, are you ?!" - and the steps were silent.
I replied:
- I believe. Until we land on Mars, do not rest.
In conclusion - the favorite picture of Korolev, hanging over the table in his office: "The Difficult Way."
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About eternal wanderings and about Moscow. Part 1: Star Trek to Ostankino Korolev, Sergey, Korolev, when, Moscow, the most, through, Ostankino, Moscow, very, here, cosmonautics, which, the metro, Gagarin, Pavlovich, which, Moscow, after, space

In the next part we will go to Khodynka - the metropolitan area second in its "cosmic nature".
MIDDLE SPACE MOSCOW-2018
My space program. Table of contents.
On the popularizers of cosmonautics (Moscow and St. Petersburg).
Satellite cities in concrete orbit
Korolev. General
Korolev. Space enterprises and their museums.
Korolev. Podlipki and Jubilee.
Korolev.Kostino, Bolshevo, Pervomayka.
Reutov. In parallel orbit.
Relight Where do missiles learn to fly.
Khimki. City.
Khimki. NPO Lavochkina and Energomash.
Lyubertsy. City.
Lyubertsy. Tomilino and the plant "Star".
Dzerzhinsky and Nikolo-Ugreshsky Monastery.
Zhukovsky and Bykovo.
Zhukovsky. Old city.
Zhukovsky and Kratovo.
Golitsyno and surroundings (More Vyazemy, Kubinka, Park "Patriot")
Park "Patriot". Expositions about the partisans, the Syrian war and space.
About eternal wanderings and about Moscow.
Moscow. Ostankino.
Moscow. Hodynka.
Moscow. Institutes and plants.
Moscow. Fili and Khrunichev Center.
Moscow. Tushino and "Buran".
Moscow. IKI and IBMP.

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